Why in the world, you might wonder, would one rave about a king salmon dish out of landlocked Reno, Nevada? The answer is a dedicated fisherman/fire captain who, on the days when he can get out on the water, catches the fish from his boat off the coast of Northern California and drives it four hours inland to the charming 4th Street Bistro. The other reason is the beautiful all-organic local produce sourced by chef Natalie Sellers (a transplanted San Franciscan who cooked at Stars and the Warwick Regis Hotel). A roll call of summer squash varieties — patty pan, yellow, green and the perfectly round eight-ball zucchini — lightly steamed and buttered, form the base of the dish. Next comes a masterful mound of Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, then the salmon cooked just right and expertly grill-marked. The lovely corn relish that tops this satisfying dish is made with roasted red pepper, onion tarragon and olive oil.