I can’t get enough of the goodies chef Simone Tong churns out of her kitchen at Little Tong. Creative, delicious and beautiful, she takes the flavors I’m nostalgic for and adds her signature touch — in fact, she improves upon them. Now when I crave noodles, my first thought is to go to Little Tong for the mixian (rice) noodles, particularly the grandma chicken, which is pure comfort food, as the chicken thigh confit melts in your mouth, complementing the black sesame garlic oil chicken broth. Simone makes her own chili condiments, including a chili paste, chili oil (the spiciest) and soy sauce with chilies. A dash of the chili paste comes with the noodles and adds a splash of color and flavor. The quality of the food here is a steal for the prices she’s charging, especially as tip is included.