So, we headed further south to the highly-reputed Lenz Winery, also in Peconic. Again, this top producer is seen across the board on the wine lists of all the top tables we visited. I am especially enamored — as were Celia and Adria — by their Gewürztraminer. It’s tropical yet crisp; a winning combination. This is a wine that I’d easily keep a case of in the house year-round. As for the sparkling wines, I found the 1999 Cuvée sparkling wine ($30) a bit one-dimensional but enjoyed it as an accompaniment the next day with my light seafood meal at the Seafood Barge. I regret not having tried the 1994 RD sparkler ($50), as I’m sure it would have had more development and complexity. (RD = recently disgorged; I am reminded of my recent visit to Champagne when I visited