A totally different blanc de blancs from the Grand Cru Pinot Noir land of Aÿ. A rarity and a completely convincing study in terroir, Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blanc d’Aÿ is a pure Chardonnay wine made from grapes grown in Aÿ. This is the most coveted village for Pinot Noir-driven champagnes. It is home to the two heavy-weight houses of Bollinger and Gosset. In this wine, you’ll taste more of what the soil of Aÿ, which produces top-notch Pinot Noir grapes, imparts rather than common taste profiles from Chardonnay. This sets this wine apart from other blanc de blancs in the best way. ($36)