L’Artusi occupies an odd two-story space. The ground floor, where there are three different bar areas for drinks, cheese and raw on one side and tables on the other, is long and deep. The second floor has both open and private dining areas, but wherever you sit, everyone’s having a good time.

The pasta menu changes frequently, often with just slight variations. The first time I had the orecchiette, it was with sausage and bitter greens, but now they’ve added salumi. I’ve had this dish on all three visits and will probably order it next time, but without the salumi, a third wheel in this mix. The spaghetti with meatballs, though a staple, is by far the least interesting. The pizzoccheri, a thick flat buckwheat pasta, was served au gratin with potatoes, Fontina and Brussels sprouts. It’s on the heavier side but very tasty. And, saving the best for last, the garganelli was served with sea urchin and shrimp in a tomato sauce. Of the four pastas we ordered, this was the first to go.

L’Artusi is casual, fun, reasonable and pleasant. No wonder it’s still booming in a down market. We need more of this type of energy!