Intrigued and Enticed

Unusual blends always intrigue me. But being intrigued and being enticed are two separate things. Franck Peillot’s Montagnieu NV ($14/glass; $54/bottle), a white altesse-mondeuse-chardonnay bubbly from the Bugey region of southeastern France, intrigued then enticed. Since I’m so unfamiliar with altesse (more commonly known outside the region as roussette) and mondeuse, I had to approach this wine the way you approach someone you’ve just met: with curiosity, some skepticism, some faith and good will. It’s a blanc de blancs with a lot of rustic notes. Don’t get me wrong, it’s incredibly clean and focused, but not a razor-sharp kind of wine. I enjoyed it with deviled eggs, as the rustic flavors and bubbly texture embraced the creamy mayonnaise and curry notes for a most ideal aperitif-time opener.