On the plate, chef Carrie Nahabedian’s exuberant and full-bore approach to life is harnessed and refined, resulting in dishes like this elegant exploration of the classic combination of foie gras and fruit. When I had it, the fresh seasonal fruit was roasted pear; more recently the chef has been going with peaches, rhubarb and roasted fennel. In the pear version, pears that have been poached with vanilla and star anise, caramelized, then roasted are placed on puff pastry and crisped to order. A slab of seared Hudson Valley foie gras is laid atop the fruit; supporting players include preserved Armenian walnuts, rhubarb puree and rhubarb crisps. Anise hyssop greens add a delicate, aromatic touch, and the dish is finished with an eau de vie de poire (pear brandy), rich duck jus and butter sauce. Dishes like these are many-layered labors of love, and the fact that their pleasures are fleeting make them all the more precious.