Everything about the new Whitney Museum of American Art is a better version of what it was before, including the museum restaurant, Untitled. While the name is the same and it’s still managed by Union Square Hospitality Group, it’s completely transformed with chef Michael Anthony at the helm, featuring a cuisine reminiscent of the best of Gramercy Tavern. For example, a dish of local Long Island fluke with Korean melon ribbons was light, delicate and refreshing, with hints of Southeast Asian flavors. The sauce contains nine different ingredients, including celery and kaffir-lime juices, coconut water and even a drop of mescal. Another seafood dish I loved, the ruby-red shrimp cooked on the plancha, was served in a tomato sauce studded with sautéed okra, bell peppers and red onions; I thought it would have made a great sauce for pasta.
Chef Anthony explains: “[T]hese are good examples of our attempt to streamline complex seasonal flavors into relatively simple dishes.” This is why Untitled is one of the most exciting restaurants in town right now. For the ultimate New York experience, I recommend a walk down the High Line to visit the Whitney and dine at Untitled.