This is not your basic beginner’s pizza, and some might find it a little too aggressive. Yet I loved the bitter and salty land and sea flavors that pizza savant Nancy Silverton pulls together in this pie. The guanciale, or pig cheek bacon, is among the best I’ve tasted, and the bitterness of the greens and saltiness of the anchovies in the bagna cauda are offset by the creaminess of the egg. Even Mozza’s Neapolitan-style crust can get overly charred and chewy, but when it’s good, the bagna cauda pie jolts the senses and blazes a new trail through familiar pizza territory. And don’t just get the pies at Pizzeria Mozza; the house special salads, daily mains and butterscotch budino can more than hold their own.