Spicy Village is known for its spicy big tray chicken, and Mark Bittman’s feature on the dish continues to draw many non-Chinese diners to this Chinatown destination. While the big tray chicken is extremely tasty, you should know that even in Sichuan, Henan and other Chinese provinces known for spicy cuisine, milder dishes are eaten to balance out the _ma la spices. So while many of the noodles at Spicy Village pack a delicious, fiery punch, my favorite is the comforting egg and tomato hand-pulled wide noodles. It’s a dry noodle dish, but the tomatoes are so juicy that they almost make a broth. Scrambled eggs with tomato is a simple and basic comfort food common to Chinese home kitchens. To serve it with these springy noodles is ingeniously delicious. Topped with some baby bok choy and shredded chayote for a little texture, the dish is extremely balanced. At five dollars a bowl, I could have this every day.