A Drappier Brut Nature as champagne by the glass pleasantly surprised me — a bargain at €6 (at least by New York standards, where a flute can easily top $15). Pale onion skin in tone, it was a 100 percent Pinot Noir non-dosé bubbly (meaning it is a completely dry champagne with no residual sugar added to the final wine-making process). I was really paying attention to this elegant wine. It had all the Pinot Noir characteristics of red fruits, with just enough acidity that kicked in and kept it in balance. Since it had no dosage, the acidity had to be just right or it would have been too harsh to enjoy. A good start to my first glass of champagne in Paris!