Heavenly Mediterranean Fish

At most of the Michelin three star restaurants I have been fortunate enough to try, there is at least one “wow!” moment when the food and wine come together to make a lasting impression. I recently had a very memorable moment at Gérald Passédat’s Le Petit Nice in Marseille, a sophisticated seaside restaurant with superb views of the Mediterranean.

In an evening filled with ups and downs in the food and service, there was one Mt. Everest of a peak: the denti Lucie Passédat. Denti is a local Marseille variation of daurade (sea bream) renowned for its delicate fleshy texture. This dish, named in honor of the chef’s mother, is one of the best fish dishes I have ever had.

The denti was topped with zucchini and a small amount of truffle, served on a bed of tomatoes, basil, coriander and wild fennel: a beauty to behold. The fragrance of the fish was sumptuous, accented by just the right amount of truffle.

The soft tangy fish looked almost undercooked, but it simply melted in the mouth. The tomatoes and truffle highlighted the texture of the fish, while the coriander bound the dish together without overpowering it. The pairing of a 2005 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Champ-Canet from Etienne Sauzet had just enough body to sustain the dish in the mouth and leave a lovely lingering glow. Wow, indeed!