If I could have only one food for the rest of my life, it would be crudo. And it is with pride and confidence that I share the best crudo in New York City: Costata’s. I did not expect Costata’s crudo to be this outstanding, since the restaurant is a steakhouse. (Marea is Michael White’s seafood restaurant, after all.) But executive chef PJ Calapa’s magic touch infuses every dish. It’s one surprise after another, from steaks to salads and crudos.

As with good sushi, good quality fish is only half of the equation to make excellent crudo; the other half is in how the chef massages and brings out the flavor of that fish. At Costata, the crudo is distinguished by its garnishing. The restaurant carefully considers garnishes, using them to complement the freshness and flavor of each seafood selection, rather than as a mere afterthought. Costata’s thin cuts of fish are in perfect proportion to the accompanying garnish.

Take for example the restaurant’s exceptional scallop crudo with its current summer garnish of celery root. Sliced diver scallops sit on a bed of celery root purée and are topped with black truffle vinaigrette, pickled celery root, sea salt and yellow celery leaves. The dish is impeccable. I’ve tried the crudo at many of the top seafood restaurants in the city, but my search for the best ended when I found Costata. It should be the first place you go when you feel a craving for crudo.