If fate happens to drop you and a large group of friends in Reno, Nevada, take it as a sign that you should go to Louis’ Basque Corner, the 44-year-old institution that once provided fuel for hard-working Basque shepherds. Fresh from an interior facelift, the restaurant exudes the warmth of a gastropub and serves traditional seven-course, family-style Basque dinners. Each diner gets to choose a main course to go with the set menu, and it’s worth going out of your way to make sure at least one order of the sweetbreads makes it to your table. The dish comes in two preparations, crispy sautéed or draped in a vermouth-spiked sauce. I loved the crispy version with peppers and onions. And if you like saucy dishes the delicious brown sauce that smothers Louis’ braised ox tail course is also a great choice.