An address for crab lovers. I was invited by a true connoisseur of all the better things in life. We started with the drunken crab. While I usually indulge in everything raw, the taste and texture of this cold dish of crab soaked in yellow wine didn’t do much for me. But the subsequent four courses, all made with the different parts of cooked crab, were pretty deliciously decadent. The natural pairing with this meal was Shaoxing wine served in a shot glass with a preserved plum.