The food at Thai Paradise is so much better than the Thai offerings I’ve sampled in New York that it’s hard not to crave multiple dishes on the menu. The crab fried rice, though, stands out. It’s got that balance of steamy softness and bite that a good fried rice has to have, and just the right blend of salty, sweet and savory flavors. Instead of add-ins mixed throughout the dish, this one is top-loaded, with a heaping pile of silky crabmeat and soft-scrambled egg mixed with soy, fish and oyster sauces. For fans of sticky rice dessert soups like me, a warm and comforting azuki bean version arrives at meal’s end, compliments of the chef.