Craig Koketsu’s savory-and-sweet classic is a hybrid spin on one of his comfort food favorites, creamed corn, and France’s version of caramelized custard, crème brûlée. It’s familiar yet novel, and deeply delicious. Enjoyment comes in two stages. First, your teeth break through a brittle skin of caramelized sugar. The second act unfolds as sweet corn kernels — suspended in a smooth custard composed simply of eggs, cream, sugar and salt — pop in your mouth. Characteristic of the Quality Meats menu, the dish is a new twist on a classic, or actually two classics. Most importantly, it makes a perfect side to a robust, aged bone-in sirloin or any of the house’s meaty entrées.