Looking at this exceptionally beautiful and suggestive dish, you might think that Frank Gehry decided to start working with edible ingredients. Instead, it is one of Gilt Executive Chef Justin Bogle’s eye-popping creations. The dish tests your wits as you parse its complex weave of textures (meaty fish, smooth green curry-cauliflower puree, slippery coconut gel, crunchy fried taro) and tastes (the heat and umami of curry, the sweetness of papaya, an herbal note from the Thai basil and a lovely smokiness from the charred romaine). Many areas of your brain will light up while you try to decode the DNA of this dish. Or, you can simply sit back and enjoy the feeling of happy surprise it evokes, ideally with a wine suggested by Gilt’s sharp and discerning sommelier Patrick Cappiello.