An intriguingly delicious specialty was the cloudberry duck. Pan-seared slices of duck breast are served with braised red cabbage and carrot ginger mash in a cloudberry reduction. Unfamiliar with cloudberry, I was fascinated to learn that it grows mostly in the Northern Hemisphere, thriving on sunlight and acidic soil, and withstands cold temperatures, so Sweden’s 23 hours of sunlight during summertime makes for the ideal breeding ground. I am told that the fruit when ripe is not tart but creamy. And from what I tasted in the reduction with the duck, it’s well balanced and sweet. A note of caution, the first time I tasted this dish at the Scandinavia House, the duck was cooked medium rare and to perfection. At the West Village restaurant, though I requested it medium rare, the duck was served well done, and it seemed a different dish altogether, and not for the better. The waitress was very accommodating, however, and offered to bring a new duck. So if you’re duck is overcooked, ask for a new one to make sure you get to savor the juicy flavors of this well conceived dish.

Smörgås Chef has three restaurants in The City (originally four, the Midtown location recently closed). While the atmosphere of each is different and befitting each of the neighborhoods (Financial District, West Village and Midtown), all are consistently low key and understated. The cuisine is home-style and the price is definitely right.