Autumn in Champagne: a perfect day of tasting with friends ended with a perfect moment before a lovely dinner at a classic Reims restaurant, Le Foch.

What was the perfect moment? It could have been the truly original starter, frog legs ravioli with pine nuts — a fresh, light take on a French classic. Or the classic and perfectly executed main dish, sweetbreads with morel mushrooms and truffles in a blood wine sauce.

But no, the highlight was the aperitif: a simple glass of champagne recommended by the sommelier, a Brut Antique Blanc Premier Cru from Cattier in Chigny-les-Roses. I had never heard of the producer, and the village is more well known for the black-skin grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. But after a long day of tasting complex, serious champagnes, a pure, simple 100% Chardonnay champagne with no fuss (but lovely tastes of brioche and lemongrass) just hit the spot.