Varnier-Fannière Brut Zero Grand Cru NV*
Village: Avize (Grand Cru), Côtes des Blancs; Blend: 100% Chardonnay; Style: Brut Zero; Attributes: Steely, structured, balanced, clean, elegant.

First Impression: Joyful.

The Moment: December 19, 2007 (Okay, so I’m cheating; this wasn’t 2008, but I never got to write about this wine and it’s top on my list). Globus Wine Company, Shanghai. Pre-dinner drinks with French and Russian champagne enthusiasts — François Lemmonier, Chairman of the Shanghai Wine Society, and Alexy and Galina Poznyakov, owners of Globus — in a chic neighborhood of the French Concession during the holiday season. I served it again a few days before New Year’s at home with my parents in Taipei.

Pairings: At home in Taipei, uni dressed with olive oil and lemon juice served on toast. Also try, succulent raw oysters.

Context: I’d drink this in my happiest moments. If it were available in NYC, I’d have it as my house aperitif. Everyone who walks through my door would get a glass as a welcome!

Where to find it:
SHANGHAI: Globus Wine Company (RMB$498 , ~$73) 86-21-5465-2774.