Just in time for the holidays, Brigadeiro Bakery recently opened its first store in SoHo. Chef-owner Mariana Vieira says brigadeiros are a ubiquitous treat in her native Brazil, popular since the 1940s. These condensed milk-based truffles are cooked but not baked so the base of the brigadeiro has a rich, silky texture that’s gooier than a caramel and softer than ganache. The original brigadeiro flavor is chocolate with chocolate sprinkles; it’s the best-seller but a little too sweet for my taste. For dark chocolate lovers, bahia with coco nibs is quite extraordinary, as the coco nibs bring different layers of complexity to the brigadeiro: bitterness, smokiness, and fruity aroma. And the crunch of the nibs is a nice contrast to the smoothness of the brigadeiro chocolate center. There are so many flavors to try: coconut, lemon, banana, pistachio, almond and honey, cinnamon-pecan, and coffee, to name a few. Each flavor tastes completely different and has its unique qualities. The passion fruit, for example, has a gritty and denser texture that reminds me of duck egg yolk, but the combination of sweet and tart makes it light and refreshing. If you want to check out the baseline brigadeiro, try the Two Lovers, a sweet juxtaposition of plain chocolate and unflavored plain brigadeiros. A box of assorted brigadeiros is a lovely gift to take to your holiday gatherings, and this way you get to try all the different flavors.