For great champagnes, head to SEA GRAPE (512 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014; 212-463-7688) in the West Village. They have a good selection of hard-to-find grower-producer gems from Becky Wasserman and Jenny & François Selections. Starting at the entry level, you can taste a Bernard Girardin Cuvée BG ($45) or focus on a single-village wine from my favorite Grand Cru village for Chardonnay grapes, Chouilly, with a bottle of 1999 Vazart-Coquart & Fils Cuvée Club ($75).