I have a hard time resisting clams in any variety and preparation, but it’s not always easy to find well-prepared dishes that fully unleash clams’ umami flavors. The barley risotto with little neck clams at Narcissa is a celebration of the bivalve and a sublime demonstration of how it should be used. Deep flavors of the sea permeate this dish, especially in the clam broth crème fraîche mix, and the perfectly cooked grains of barley offset that aromatic richness with a complementary earthy flavor. Chef John Fraser focuses on farm-fresh cuisine, so while the barley risotto is standard on Narcissa’s menu, its preparation varies depending on what’s available during the season — currently, sweet and tender leeks. The clam bellies used in the risotto are plump and juicy, with a smooth poached texture that’s a pleasure to eat (no rubbery clams here). The dish is topped with red pepper flakes, garlic chips, thyme and oregano leaves and spring garlic flowers, and every flavor pops, from the fresh botanical to the salty sea.