There’s nothing exotic about Zell’s an American Café’s salmon eggs Benedict; it’s just perfectly executed and delicious. The toasted English muffins are Bay’s, the salmon is pan-seared and finished in the oven until its center is a shade past translucent, and the poached egg whites are cloud-like, not rubbery. The chef whisks up a pitcher of feather-light hollandaise every morning (just the way I like it, though some might like theirs richer and heavier), and lets the lemon have its say without overpowering the fish. The hash browns with bits of salty onions lend a down-home touch. Zell’s is the kind of classic breakfast joint that I don’t think New York City has enough of: beautiful wooden counter, great food (including a pair of outrageously good, warm housemade scones that greet each diner who sits down), and fast, friendly service.