Mile End Deli and Sandwich recently started making their own bagels modeled after those of their former bagel source, Montreal’s St-Viateur bakery. I’m a big fan of these Montreal-style bagels, which have a lot less dough than hearty New York bagels and are covered in sesame seeds. Parboiled in honey water, then baked in a hearth, Mile End’s bagels have just the right ratio of springy dough to hard crust, and just the right amount of schmear — New York’s beloved Ben’s cream cheese. This elegant bagel is my new favorite because it never leaves me feeling heavily weighed down. I like mine with a slice of tomato, but you can also add onion or capers for an additional 25 cents each.

Note: Due to Hurricane Sandy, Mile End’s Red Hook facilities, where the bagels are made, was wiped out. As Mile End rebuilds its facilities, Mile End Sandwich will be serving bialys with schmear.