I tried angulas, baby eels, a traditional Basque dish, while in Madrid and was instantly hooked. Now I just light up when I see them on a menu. Baby eels, mild in flavor without any hint of the sea, have the springy texture of thin egg noodles. At Lower East Side wine/tapas bar The Ten Bells, the baby eels are sautéed in olive oil with garlic and red peppers and placed over a bed of fresh arugula dressed with a splash of balsamic vinegar. This warm salad is light, refreshing and flavorful. It’s so delicious that I ordered a second!