Kurt Gutenbrunner’s latest German-Austrian bistro, Blaue Gans, is a welcome addition to his KG empire that includes Wallse and Cafe Sabarsky. Many of the dishes that I expected to be heavier or muddier in flavor were delightfully clean and at the same time richly flavorful. The crispy fried chicken, which is both breaded and fried, was one of the most rewarding entrees: the meat was notably juicy, the levels of saltiness and flavoring were perfectly controlled and it was not greasy.