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Atlantic Fluke Tartare, Compressed Summer Melons Soft “Tofu” and Kanzuri
October 25, 2012

Per Se

Atlantic Fluke Tartare, Compressed Summer Melons Soft “Tofu” and Kanzuri

Nancy Matsumoto

At Per Se, the minimalist Adam Tihany-designed room seems built to show off two things: the lovely view of Central Park (temporarily interrupted by conceptual artist Tatsu Nishi’s airborne installation, “Discovering Columbus”) and the food. This off-the-menu dish, thrilling to behold and taste, did not disappoint. I loved how the jewel-toned melon orbs, vacuum-compressed to intensify flavor, gleamed in the glass bowl like oversized pearls of caviar. The meltingly soft fluke was lightly cured with salt and Persian lime zest, while the “tofu” took on its unusually creamy texture through a process in which toasted dry soy beans are milled to a fine powder, simmered in soy milk and mixed with whipped cream. A yuzu-spiked, fermented chili paste known as kanzuri and a little ginger finished the dish, rendering it a miniature masterpiece.

Per Se

10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY
10023
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Price
$$$$
Tags
Tofu
Neighborhood
Upper West Side