A Bright Ruby Israeli Diamond

How do you like your rosé? Pale and subtle or deep and intense? Or somewhere in between? My preferences are on the extremes: I love my nuanced barely pink rosés (think Provence), and I also like ’em provocative and unusual.

This 2012 Recanati Diamond rosé ($14.50) belongs to the latter category. Imagine bright red sour cherries, both visually and on the palate. The tanginess keeps me interested. While its vivid color had me expecting an intensely fruity profile, this wine keeps good balance from its pretty acidity. The finish is delightfully dry.

Did I mention this is an Israeli rosé? It’s a single-vineyard blend of Barbera and Merlot from the Upper Galilee — unexpected and attractive. I had it with some summer peaches, and the floral notes of the wine interacted convivially with the even more fragrant fruit. This bright and bold rosé says, “No rules!”