A Wine That Keeps Its Promise

The nose of a wine seduces and makes promises, but it doesn’t always live up to these expectations on the palate. Take for example this incredibly heady perfumy white. It was hard to tell whether the fragrant notes would follow through or disappear with the first sip. Floral scents can be so ephemeral, but here they actually last to the end (and linger). This Rhône-style white, 2011 Halter Ranch Côtes de Paso Blanc ($28), is a seducer. The grenache (33%), roussanne (26%), picpoul blanc (20%), marsanne (12%) and viognier (9%) blend isn’t just floral but also entices with its seamless balance, structure and beautiful acidity. I love its weight: substantial without being heavy. Lovely to discover picpoul blanc, which winemaker Kevin Sass tells me loosely translates to “stinging lips” for its high acidity! The oak contact on this wine is a perfect example of how barrels can round out the texture instead of just adding “big and buttery” notes.