This past weekend, I got to taste the just-launched Tre Rosati. I literally arrived at Channing Daughters, one of only three wineries in the Hamptons AVA region, on the day their rosé series was released. Comprised of three single-varietal rosés, the series includes a Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Just the gradation of pinks from the coppery Cab Franc to the deep strawberry Cab Sauv was inviting and eye-catching. And the taste of these 2008 wines was equally delightful. Rosés are no longer mindless sipping wines as each of these shows off the specific characteristics of the grape from which it was made.

I was especially taken with the Cab Franc ($19), bone-dry with a pretty acidity and notes of ripe peach and tart pink grapefruit. Winemaker Christopher Tracey is a pro at producing wines with tight structure, and here we have a rosé with fantastic composition and weight.