What is it about Dolcetto? I had forgotten about this Piemontese grape until I had it for breakfast recently, and then I discovered a delightful rosé made of 100% Dolcetto.

Alessio Carli, the Italian winemaker of Pietra Santa in Cienega Valley, California, loves to experiment. I love his Gewürztraminer and his olive oils, which are full of character and spice. This year he launches his first Dolcetto Rosato, 2007 Pietra Santa Rosato ($15). This pink wine has weight to make you crave a pairing with carpaccio, chicken, tuna steak, pasta or pizza. Pleasant as can be, it’s just a bowl of strawberries run wild!