I’m loving California wines again because I’m discovering new regions that are making their names on their own styles. This up-and-coming AVA is shining with varietals from Sauvignon Blanc to Petite Sirah. I especially liked the 2006 Syrah (80% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot) and 2006 Wrangler Red (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 11% Zinfandel, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Tempranillo) ($21.99) from Shannon Ridge. This is what food-pairing wines should be showing: clean fruit and complexity that is not overshadowed by high alcohol percentage or heavy oak.