At Moulin de Martorey [in St. Rémy, +184.108.40.206.12.98], we drank three wines that showed the classic beauty of Burgundy. We started off with a 2005 St. Aubin 1er Cru “Les Frionnes” from Hubert Lamy. Tasting a tad over oaked at the start, this lovely white quickly softened into a fresh and light vanilla-flavored Chardonnay (and I mean this in the best sense of fresh vanilla). As an aperitif, it was excellent. Its price was a modest $38.