For our first course, we were recommended a 2003 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Demoiselles” from Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils. Pulignys are normally the most feminine of the Montrachet white Burgundies, but the heat wave in 2003 made this Puligny much more masculine. The first clue was the golden yellow color that one typically associates with Sauternes. Upon tasting, waves of honey and apricots washed over my palate and lingered for at least 30 seconds after swallowing. It is a gorgeous wine but one that will not age. Enjoy it — at a steep $203 — during what remains of its short glorious life.