I am enamored with the 2003 Lieb Reserve Pinot Blanc ($17). In a pale straw color, this steely wine is wonderfully structured. A citrus theme builds a steady arc of acidity and the wine ends slowly in a very clean minerally way. Just superb. In fact, I had selected to serve Lieb’s Pinot Blanc at past wine tastings to show off what New York wines are capable of, and have always impressed the crowd. Last year Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant awarded this wine as the “Best wine for pairing with West Coast oysters.” I sure can see why!