When I took my first sip of the 2003 Brut Rosé ($45), I must have looked like I was drunk happy. I hate comparing sparkling wine to champagne as I feel there is a place for both, and the comparison is pointless given the specific terroir of different wine regions. However, I do believe it is a compliment to the winemaking when a sparkling wine is said to taste like champagne. That was just the case with this rosé. I was struck by the fineness of the pearlage, layers of red fruits (preserved Chinese plums stood out the most to me), and the precise six-gram dosage which balanced the sugar level and acidity of the wine. The blend of 2/3 Pinot and 1/3 Chardonnay contributed to a cherry tone wine. I enjoyed the subtlety and elegance of this Soter gem. Watch for a blanc de blancs to come soon.