I start with a coincidence. I was dining with a friend at a simple but hearty steak house — open 24/7 and just off the Champs-Elysées — with a superb wine list (La Maison de L’Aubrac, 37 rue Marbeuf, 75008; +33.1.43.59.05.14). In the mood for adventure, I asked the sommelier to chose “quelque chose bien intéressant” to go with our steaks. He came back with a 2000 Côtes du Roussillon Villages from Domaine Gauby. The result was stunning. This is a hearty mix of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan like it should be, bursting with berry fruit flavors and restrained tannins. And it will only get better as it ages. It has at least another five years to go.