1999 Henri Giraud Cuvée Fût de Chêne Aÿ Grand Cru ($275)

Village: Aÿ; Blend: 70% Pinot d’Aÿ, 30% Chardonnay; Style: Prestige Cuvée.

Notes: Deep, bright, amber in tone. I don’t normally go for big Pinot-driven champagnes, but this one really caught my fancy. Grand Cru Aÿ grapes aged in oak barrels for 18 months result in what I call a “wine wine.” I enjoyed it with a lobster salad and frites with béarnaise sauce. A voluptuous experience.

Retailer: Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, 212-838-7500.