1995 Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut ($115)*

Village: Reims; Blend: 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir; Style: Prestige Cuvée.

Notes: A rich, toasty wine with beautiful acidity that comes mid-palate. Layers of mushrooms, toasted nuts, ripe yellow fruits. The nine years of ageing on lees really show in the complexity.

Retailer: Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, 212-838-7500.