I was surprised by my fondness for the 1992, which was served from a magnum. This was only the second 1992 I’d tasted from a champagne house. The other being the Clos des Goisses from Philipponnat. The remarkable thing is that while this vintage is overall very weakly regarded, the few houses that did make wines in 1992, namely Bollinger’s prized Vieilles Vignes and Vilmart’s Coeur de Cuvée, far exceeded expectations. So I’m beginning to see that when trusted producers declare a vintage from an off year, never doubt them.