After such a wonderful white, we were afraid that the red would be a letdown. But our sommelier dug deep into her cellar and came up with a wonderful contrast to the young Puligny. She opened a bottle of 1989 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Les Suchots” from Domaine Jean Grivot. At $240, it was not cheap, but there are few places other than top restaurants — or collectors’ homes – where you can drink old Burgundy. This gem tasted like crushed, slightly rotting red berries mixed with molding mushrooms and wet late-autumn leaves. There was even a hint of burnt leather. Not all my friends loved the wine, which I chalk up to old Burgundy being an acquired taste. Once you have it and can afford it though, it is a hard habit to break.