1983 Alfred Gratien*
Village: Epernay, Champagne; Blend: 61% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Meunier; Style: Vintage; Attributes: Rich, nutty, truffley, mature, complex.

First Impression: Vibrant.

The Moment: March 20, 2008. The Modern, New York. Meeting up with two Alfred Gratien contacts — Adam Lower, export manager visiting from France, and Geoffroy Ducroux from the local importer side. I had just finished a cyn-et-vin champagne tasting for a client and rushed uptown for this rather glorious night of champagne feasting. It’s not every day that a girl gets to savor a vintage champagne from three decades ago at the end of the workday, even a champagne girl. And the company was more than welcoming. This older wine jumped out at me as it tasted so fresh for its age. Yet after the initial shock, I picked up on the layers of roasted nuts and truffle. It drank so well, which reminded me that when a reputable house declares a vintage in an off year, they do it with confidence. This wine is showing better than a lot of 1990s (which are reaching their peak).

Pairings: At The Modern, Tarte Flambée, an Alsatian tart with crème fraîche, onion and smoked bacon. Also try, any other mushroom or bacon-inspired dishes.

Context: For those who love older champagnes or champagne with vinous qualities. To be savored slowly in a relaxed atmosphere.

Where to find it:
NEW YORK: Lure Fish Bar ($595/bottle) 212-431-7676; Martin Brothers ($270) 212-222-8218.