“Steak and Eggs” Korean Style
by Celia Cheng
August 26th, 2008
THE GOOD FORK
391 Van Brunt St
(Van Dyke & Coffey St)
Red Hook, Brooklyn
718-643-6636
$$
The Good Fork has been on my list of restaurants to try for quite some time now. I was deterred by the lack of public transportation to the Red Hook area, but since the recent opening of Brooklyn’s IKEA, I could no longer use the difficult commute excuse, with the free water taxi and shuttle buses now available.
They take a limited number of reservations as most of the tables are left open for walk-ins. So securing one for Saturday at 8pm was a smart move, considering that walk-ins were told the wait was an hour and a half for a party of two.
I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I knew that since 360 closed, The Good Fork has been pretty much the only restaurant in this neighborhood that congregates locals and foodies alike. Chef owner Sohui Kim cooked at Savoy and Annisa, two of my favorites, before opening The Good Fork with her husband. I knew it was going to be a good meal, but I didn’t realize that I’d be so excited that I’d want to come back the next night. I opted to return the following week instead, and while my dinner companion and I ordered the same excellent entrées, we tried different appetizers and sides.
With a focus on local organic produce, the cuisine is American with some Korean influences, like the homemade dumplings, kimchi rice, shrimp scallion pancake and “steak and eggs” Korean style.
My companion and I started with the mixed organic field greens with house dressing, which is a great choice for a simple, healthy appetizer. There’s nothing boring about it. But for a little added diversity, the other salad option of grilled nectarine, curly endive, green beans and maple braised bacon, is also lovely. The dumplings were lack-luster, but the chilled Pacific oysters poached in olive oil, with mango avocado and lemon cucumbers was a hit. When asked what type of oysters these were, the waiter returned to tell me that their distributor would only say they’re from the Pacific Northwest. Though I couldn’t get the variety out of them, the oysters were deliciously plump and juicy. The brininess was undercut by the sweet mango and creamy avocado. Lemon cucumbers are now my new love, and the only cukes I’ll buy when available. There was an accent of kochujang (Korean hot sauce) on the plate to add some heat to the cool dish.
On the two separate occasions, we tried the dumplings (as mentioned) and pancake, which did not live up to expectations — for these two Korean staples, I prefer what I can find in Koreatown both for flavor and texture. The steak and eggs, however, is outstanding. Marinating beef is a strength in Korean cuisine, so the grilled skirt steak is not only tender, but also perfectly seasoned. It’s served with kimchi rice and a fried egg — a delectable combination. On my first visit, the kimchi rice was too soggy and bland, and I had wished that it was made more like kimchi fried rice, with the rice grains clearly defined and absorbing the spicy and tangy juices of the kimchi. They must have heard my prayers because the rice on the following Saturday was perfect in texture: not too soggy or greasy.
Another entrée we ordered two weeks in a row was the grilled gulf shrimp with risotto. It was cooked with lemon-thyme, peas, Added Value Farm squash, zucchini and cherry tomatoes. Every ingredient in this dish exuded freshness. The flavors were pronounced, proving that local, in-season produce makes better meals.
We ended both meals with the apple tart à la mode. Warm, with delicate slices of baked apple and flaky thin-layered crust, it hits the spot.
A copious dinner for two with two appetizers, two entrées, two glasses of wine and a dessert to share rang in both times just under $100. In terms of quality price ratio, The Good Fork wins a gold medal. Overall, the good food, charming atmosphere, friendly service and great value place The Good Fork on another list of mine: favorites.
Posted in American , Beef , Korean , Red Hook
Pan-Fried Medallions of Veal w/ Calves Sweetbreads
by Mort Hochstein
August 25th, 2008
Cheneston’s
The Milestone Hotel
1 Kensington Court
London
W8 5DL
United Kingdom
+44 (0)20 7917 1200
Butler’s
The Chesterfield Mayfair
35 Charles St
London
W1J 5EB
United Kingdom
+44 (0)20 7491 2622
The Montague on the Gardens
15 Montague St
London
WC1 5BJ
United Kingdom
+44 (0)20 7637 1001
I regret it. I never tasted Bea’s chicken noodle soup. It’s a favorite recipe of Bea Tollman, founder and president of the Red Carnation Hotels, and it’s a standard on Red Carnation menus throughout the world.
On a recent survey trip, I dined at three Red Carnation hotels in London. The Milestone is a five star operation, and the Chesterfield Mayfair and Montague on the Gardens are rated four stars. Having once been a Mobil guide inspector, I know the vagaries of the rating system, so I am often skeptical of the minuscule differences between four and five stars. There was no fault in the amenities of any of these three hotels.
I certainly appreciated the food, ambiance and service at Cheneston’s in the Milestone. The hotel, which draws top ratings in all the guides, overlooks Kensington Palace and Hyde Park and is just a few minutes up the road from Harrods and Harvey Nichols in the shopping mecca of Knightsbridge. It is also within close walking distance of the Royal Albert Hall and several major tourist attractions, including the Victoria and Albert Museum.
The Milestone, a Gothic looking structure, is completely posh old world in its furnishings and certainly in its attention to detail, which includes butler service. On our final night in London, we drank aged Port in a secluded lounge before going into its acclaimed restaurant, Cheneston’s, and were so comfortable we found it difficult to leave our elegant corner table overlooking the park across the way. Cheneston’s wood paneled dining room, complete with fireplace and tuxedoed staff, features biting caricatures by Georges Goursat, turn of the century French artist best known as Sem.
We started with a terrine of Belgian endive, Gruyere cheese and Parma ham, flavored with aged balsamic vinegar striking a perfect balance between sweet and piquant. I had spotted turbot on the menu and intended to build my meal around it, until I saw an even more enticing veal dish.
Chef David Smith sent out succulent pan-fried medallions of veal accompanied by tender calves sweetbreads (the real reason I switched main courses), roasted organic tomatoes, cocotte potatoes and further embellished with a lush Madeira and thyme-flavored sauce. Rolaine, my wife, went to the fish side, choosing the Dover sole, plated with fresh new potatoes and broad beans. It was her second gustatory encounter in six days with her favorite fish, and it was hard to make a distinction between the two. Both, we agreed, had been worth the journey across the Atlantic, as it would have been hard to match either of them back in New York. With dinner, we shared an outstanding 2003 Galpin Peak Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir from Bouchard Finlayson of South Africa, whose wines I had enjoyed previously on a visit to Cape Town and have since located at quite reasonable prices in New York.
For dessert, we tried an imaginative raspberry and mango soufflé with ginger ice cream. Delightful it was, but we’ve always favored Capsouto Frères in New York whose towering, deeply flavored soufflé we regard as the culinary peak for that specialty.
On another occasion, we were spoiled silly by lunchtime service at Butler’s in the Chesterfield Mayfair, a much more modern hotel, which retains the elegance and ambiance of a history dating back to the mid-eighteenth century. In its splendid dining room, overlooking the gardens of the English Speaking Union, we put ourselves in the hands of Restaurant Manager Loris Lucchini.
Well, we didn’t abdicate total responsibility. Mr. Lucchini suggested Bea Tollman’s chicken consommé, but we opted instead for servings of Scottish and Irish smoked salmon. Lucchini carved portions of the two varieties at tableside, more than one serving, I will admit, matching them in traditional fashion with onions, capers and egg, and explaining to us the subtle differences.
We would have been happy with little more, but he then led us to a pair of his favorite plates. The first was Rolaine’s other encounter with Dover sole, which was perfectly grilled and served with fresh new potatoes and wilted spinach. The other, fleshy, yet delicate lamb cutlets, was accompanied by sautéed potato, asparagus and mint-tinted hollandaise sauce. After all this, we said a firm ‘no” to any discussion of dessert and his suggestion that we return later to enjoy a traditional afternoon tea. Delightful as his recital sounded, we had to decline because our schedule would not permit a teatime intermission.
We stayed at Montague on the Gardens, around the corner from the British Museum and in the heart of Bloomsbury, home to the famed literary group whose members included Virginia Woolf, Clive and Vanessa Bell, E. M. Forster and Lytton Strachey. Though it is within walking distance of teeming Soho and the theater district, the area is serene and little trafficked.
The accommodations were five stars in our estimation. The rooms and suites, each decorated differently, were large and stylishly casual though elegant and comfortable, definitely more homey than hotel-like.
Breakfasts were bountiful, with an overflowing table of egg dishes, fruits, cheeses, meats, breads and pastry. It was here that we had planned, finally, to try Mrs. Tallman’s chicken soup, but on this final afternoon, we landed matinée tickets and had to be satisfied, instead, with a quick sandwich in the theater district. We shall have to defer the pleasure until our next visit to London.
Posted in Continental , Fish , London , Meat
Tortilla Napoleon (crispy fried tortilla, portabello mushroom, goat cheese & red pepper w/ huitlacoche sauce)
by Cristy-Lucie Alvarado
July 28th, 2008
ITZOCAN CAFÉ
438 E 9th St
(1st Ave & Ave A)
212-677-5856
Lately I’ve been obsessed with the idea of finding the perfect date spot. What I’m looking for is a hole-in-the-wall, clean with tasty food and a charming atmosphere. And on a recent visit to Itzocan Café, I found myself on my ideal date, without even trying!
I visited the Itzocan in the East Village; there’s also a bistro on the Upper East Side. The chefs, brothers from Puebla, Mexico, keep their dishes native with ingredients such as huitlacoche and guajillo while always adding an elegant twist — creating a surprising marriage of French-Mexican cuisine. They serve brunch, lunch, and dinner, and offer a concise selection of beer, sangria, and wine. The cozy room houses eight tables attended to by one server. It was nice to sit and feel like I was having dinner with my date rather than the whole restaurant. The server was helpful with the menu and gladly explained the differences in dishes and the foreign ingredients used.
I started off with the queso fundido. A basket of homemade chips accompanied a skillet with two slices of Brie melted over a sauté of mushrooms, poblano pepper, and chorizo. The cheese was easy to scoop up with the chips, and the rest of the ingredients added different textures for a mouthful of flavor and spice.
My entrée was a special. The tortilla napoleon is a “lasagna” of crispy fried tortilla, portabello mushroom, goat cheese and red pepper surrounded by a thick pool of huitlacoche sauce. Huitlacoche, a woody-flavored mushroom found in Mexico, was renamed the Mexican Truffle in 1989 by the James Beard Foundation to encourage American consumption of it. The stack of ingredients properly complimented each other, all coming together with the savory mushroom sauce, which I didn’t let go to waste thanks to my leftover chips!
I was hoping to finish my meal with the blue corn dessert crepes, but they were out, so I went for the regular crepes and was pleased nonetheless. The two dainty crepes were drizzled with dulce de leche and disappeared in less than two minutes.
After dessert, we sat and sipped our red sangria and enjoyed the warm ambiance. I was thrilled to have found a precious little hole with delicious food and a welcoming environment. A Friday night with no wait-list, no reservation and no complaints!
Posted in Cheese , East Village , Mexican , Tortilla
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Potato Salad/Baked Grapefruit/Red Beer
by Cristy-Lucie Alvarado
July 28th, 2008
ROEBLING TEA ROOM
143 Roebling St
@ Metropolitan Ave
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-963-0760
My last visit to Roebling Tea Room was a snacky and satisfying one. I couldn’t decide on a single dish, so I took the sides route. I needed something starchy (potato salad), something interesting (baked grapefruit), and something uplifting (red beer).
I was happy to find that, for mid-afternoon, the place wasn’t too crowded, so I chose a cozy corner and awaited my mini-meal. The potato salad, comprised of thinly sliced bliss potatoes with the peels intact, was cooked to just the right consistency, crunchy but not raw. A creamy pink dressing coated the sliced potatoes while capers and bits of red onion added a little zing and texture. I later found out that the salad gets its pink hue from Frank’s RedHot hot sauce, not paprika, as I had suspected. This atypical potato salad perfectly satisfied my carb craving.
Next I moved on to the baked grapefruit, which was cut open and carved like a star. Sparkly brown sugar was sprinkled on the face open grapefruit, which was then baked in the oven until parts of the sugar became nice and crusty. I wasn’t sure how my fork was supposed to find its way, so I dug in with hands and teeth. The juice was warm and the slight bitterness you typically find in a grapefruit was tamed by the temperature and sugar.
Finally, I topped my snack-fest off with a Red Beer: a Bloody Mary made with beer instead of vodka. Genius! It’s smoother than a Bloody Mary, and you actually get a taste of tomato juice. With a salted rim and slices of lemon and lime, this is definitely my new brunch cocktail!
Roebling Tea Room’s menu has a lot to offer, but these three items were a nice place to start and will secure many visits to come.
Posted in American , Dessert , Drinks , Potato , Williamsburg
Philly Cheese Steak Dumplings w/ sriracha ketchup
by Celia Cheng
June 30th, 2008
FIRESIDE
19 E 52nd St
@ Madison Ave
212-734-5011
Fireside, located in the Omni Berkshire Hotel in Midtown, is an unexpectedly good restaurant. You could easily mistake it for an unremarkable hotel restaurant, the kind that serves less than mediocre food but must be there for the hotel guests. That’s not the case here though. Chef Sam DeMarco is at the head of this kitchen, and his cuisine is outstanding and fun!
In his own words, he doesn’t really try to be innovative, but incorporates items in his menu that evoke nostalgia. Not innovative? I beg to differ. Philly cheese steak dumplings are innovative, but I understand what he means by nostalgic. He blends the best of both worlds.
Who doesn’t love a good Philly cheese steak? But he’s reconfigured it so that all the components — thinly sliced Rib eye, grilled onions, button mushrooms and American cheese — are wrapped in dumpling skins and then fried like pot stickers. There are five to an order, served with sriracha ketchup — what a great condiment for this masterpiece — to add a little spice. Hot pepperconi peppers as garnish also bring us back to the traditional Philly cheese steak toppings.
I agree with Chef DeMarco that he’s not trying to make fusion cuisine. He doesn’t force the elements together, but simply makes a whimsical change to the classic sandwich. Dumpling skin is a fine substitute for bread in this case. And these are much more elegant and manageable with Fireside’s playful cocktails.
I also tried the three specials currently on the couture menu: bling bling benny (crispy poached eggs with smoked sturgeon) for breakfast; OB’s Kobe burger at lunch, and luxe A-5 gold five-ounce Japanese Kobe sirloin for dinner.
The eggs benedict was nothing like what I expected. Though I love classics, I cringe when I see eggs benedict on a brunch menu. Give me something more interesting! Well, here’s new interpretation of an oldie-but-goody. The poached eggs, covered in panko and Parmesan cheese, are deep fried until crispy, and served over smoked sturgeon and a confetti of three different caviars: ginger, American paddlefish and salmon roe, embellished by asparagus and tomato. It’s a striking and delicious breakfast.
The Kobe burger won my heart instantly. A Kobe beef patty is served between two pieces of brioche tea toast with sautéed chanterelles, summer truffles, shallots and melted Brie. It’s a “tasting” portion and the perfect size for savoring the rich flavors of the high quality ingredients. Truffle fries accompany, and while a little on the greasy side, they were ideally crispy, and, besides, it’s hard to resist the scent of truffle oil.
The Kobe steak is sliced into four thin pieces that you grill at the table on a scorching Himalayan salt brick. This is a common practice in Japan known as ishiyaki (hot stone cooking). It’s fun to cook your own meat, especially when your steak starts sizzling right in front of your eyes. It only takes a few seconds for it to cook on each side, and the satisfaction thereafter is instantaneous.
Chef DeMarco is so endearing. There’s no pretense; he’s jolly and wants you to be jolly, too. I’m looking forward to trying more of his ingenious “cocktail” cuisine!
Posted in American , Appetizer , Dumpling , Midtown East , Steak
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