A Champagne Moment

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A Champagne Meal at Savoy

April 30, 2008
Cynthia Sin-Yi Cheng

Savoy
70 Prince St
@ Crosby St
New York, NY 10012
212-219-8570

What happens when a sparkling winemaker and I get together? Well, recently, Rollin Soles of Argyle Winery was visiting from Oregon, and we had the most memorable four-hour champagne lunch at Savoy. I’m happy to report that Rollin and I, together with his lovely wife, Corby, tried our first bottle of José Dhondt ($78) that day. This blanc de blancs from the Grand Cru village of Oger impressed us both. Minerally and fresh as spring, it was the perfect meal opener. Rollin was ready to take home a case. Next, we opted for the 1999 Chartogne-Taillet from Merfy (You’ve got to love the names of villages in Champagne!) ($100). This Pinot-and-Chard blend from the Coteaux de Vesle (outside the main top Champagne regions) didn’t quite live up to the standard set by our first wine. In comparison, it was rather flat in personality and structure. But my plate of handmade garganelli with house-smoked ham, English peas, dried chilli and Parmesan ($14) more than made up for the minor wine disappointment. This dish has been a constant craving since I first tasted it a month ago. And what’s more, our finale of a half bottle of 1994 Château d’Yquem ($125) certainly uplifted the leisurely, lazy lunch that would otherwise have been clouded by the torrential rain outside. Inside the magically cozy upstairs dining room at Savoy, life was beyond sunny.

1997 Extended Tirage Brut A. Argyle

I was blown away by the 1997 Extended Tirage Brut ($40), a blanc de noirs sourced from the Knudsen Vineyard. This just-released wine is 80% Pinot and 20% Chardonnay. It’s rare enough to see good Pinot-heavy blends coming from Champagne; this wine really hit me. The ten long years on lees (the process where the wine comes into... full article

Jose Dhondt NV B. 67 Wine & Spirits

Jose Dhondt NV
Village: Oger (Grand Cru), Côtes des Blanc; Blend: 100% Chardonnay; Style: Blanc de Blancs; Attributes: Seamlessly balanced, exhilarating, seductive, acidity intact and piercing.

Impressions: Racy.

The Moment: March 8, 2008. Savoy, NYC. A lunch date with Rollin and Corby Soles, owners of Argyle Winery visiting from Oregon,... full article

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A Champagne Moment