The wine pairings were a fascinating mix, all of the highest quality. Based on comments from friends who had dined at Per Se before, I had expected audacious pairings such as sake with traditional French-inspired dishes or Belgian fruit-flavored beers with Asian-inspired fares. Instead, the sommelier surprised us all by taking another approach altogether. Rather than use non-traditional alcoholic drinks, the sommelier stayed within a standard wine repertoire from France, the U.S., Spain, Australia and Germany. The genius was in the different effects she created. She used the wine to add to, layer or envelop the food, depending on the underlying flavors in the dishes served.
For example, in some instances, the wine infused with the food and added to the flavor. This was the case with the 1989 Vouvray from Domaine du Viking, which was served with the cheese course. Other pairings “layered” the food, like icing on a cake. The 2002 Riesling Grand Cru “Kessler” from Alsace by Jean-Pierre Dirler floated above the grilled white asparagus. A third type of pairing, almost enveloped the food in a blanket, coddling it and making it more friendly. Here, the 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon “The Angelus” from South Australia by Wirra Wirra Vineyards created an almost portlike sauce to surround the wagyu beef. Overall, it was a tour de force of wine-food pairing and the most memorable element of the evening for me.
Editor’s PickEverett Hutt | July 27, 2007
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