The food at Per Se (necessarily part of a prix-fixe menu) was magnificent! Particularly the calotte de boeuf grillée, which I had heard raving reviews about before. As explained to my dining companion and I, “calotte” is the cut of beef wrapped around the rib eye that butchers usually discard. Thomas Keller decided to make use of the cut of meat that’s usually disposed of and we are so glad he did! The calotte is marbled and tender, a juicy cut of meat in and of itself but in the sauce Bordelaise it was so scrumptious that I devoured the entire dish even though I had only picked at some of previous dishes because I was so full. I’m a bone marrow fanatic and found this little piece of lightly deep-fried tempura-like marrow so elegant! The farro and Swiss chard were so beautifully paired in this dish that it was sheer perfection!
Editor’s PickCelia Sin-Tien Cheng | February 08, 2007
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