I like my oysters raw, so it came as a surprise that the slightly grilled oysters at Mas La Grillade were exceedingly flavorful and plump, not having lost their true characteristics through the heat. The savory oyster jus melded with the lemon-thyme and shallot infused butter — simply scrumptious. Chef Galen Zamarra experimented with numerous oysters before sourcing directly from Island Creek of Duxbury, Massachusetts. He likes them for their meatiness, large size, ability to take the heat of slight grilling, and because the waters in Massachusetts are cleaner than nearby Long Island. Raw bar is a staple in my life, but these wood-fired oysters made such a strong impression that I’m now also a fan of cooked oysters. They are especially satisfying during these cold winter months.