At our trip to L’Etranger, I had a half dozen iced oysters with tomatoes and ponzu, ceviche, caviar with wasabi, and my wife, Rollie, had a crisp lettuce salad. The oysters were tangy with enough bite of the sea to do away with the need for any fancy dressings. We continued in the seafood vein with a succulent, moist, full-flavored cut of eel for me and toro sashimi with seaweed salad and ponzu sauce for Rollie. The plates went back clean.